How to Shop Smart in Bukavu (Rebels Love to Dress Well Too)

Eight months after M23 rebels took Bukavu, the city is as warm and dynamic as always. The national parks and banks are closed, the border with Rwanda is more user-friendly than ever, there’s a weekly community cleanup activity — but outside of that our Congo remains Congo!

We can’t take you to Kahuzi-Biega to admire Grauer’s gorillas at the moment, but we can take you … for shopping!

Easier said than done. We are heading to the Ndendere area with “Chez Baba Chigazi”, a spot famous for its busy shops and crowded streets, where car horns echo and vendors shout out their prices. Our first stop is the “chic boutiques”. Behind the tastefully decorated windows, a heap of trendy dresses, bags, and shoes will call your name. But your budget will melt away like ice under the sun …

Seriously, if you don’t know where to look, you can end up paying triple the price! Hit the hidden shopping galleries instead and everything will change. In the narrow upper floors, quality clothes at affordable prices hide. Sellers are less pushy and negotiation is easier.

The rule for newcomers: NEVER SHOP ALONE! Go with someone who knows the markets and their codes. In Bukavu, the art of negotiation is as important as having a good sense of style. It all depends on how well-versed you are in the local parler, how much patience you have, how sharp your eye is, and how well you can fake disinterest.

On the other side of town, the large market of Kadutu is where you can find almost anything you need, at unbeatable prices — just beware of pickpockets! In more peaceful times, a tourist would get some outdoor gear here.

Beyond imported stuff, let’s appreciate local craftsmanship! On Lumumba Ave, the Likembe store is the point for handmade crafts. And if you want to support young entrepreneurs, pop-up markets organised by the Orheol incubator showcase fabrics, jewelry, accessories and recycled objects. Christmas is an especially good time for this!

Finally, Kivu Nuru Gallery showcases local artisans’ works. These creations prove that Congolese talent can rival big brands, and bring the hope we need in these trying times.

text by Vanessa Maheshe; photos by Miha Logar, Elie Cirhuza and Joelle Pondu

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