Unlike most lakes of the Gorilla Highlands region, Uganda’s Lake Bunyonyi is not a crater lake. It was formed 10,000 years ago when lava dammed a river, drowning an area of 61 square kilometres (24 square miles), with 29 islands protruding it.
Is Bunyonyi Second Deepest in Africa?
Not likely. Knowing that today’s islands are former mountain tops, one can mentally connect underwater ridges and come to a conclusion that it is unlikely that Lake Bunyonyi is “the second deepest in Africa”. Nobody can trace the source of this claim, repeated by local guides.
Old scientific documents talk about 44m (144ft) as Bunyonyi’s maximum depth but it is likely that has increased over time. Namely, the river is still flooding the valleys, as it has been for thousands of years.
Lake Bunyonyi’s Birds & Fish
“Bunyonyi” means “the place of many little birds” and over 200 bird species have indeed been recorded here. That number, however, doesn’t make it a particularly unique destination in a region where double that number is not unheard of.
At the beginning of the 20th century fish were introduced but massively died in the 1960s, perhaps as a result of a volcanic gas emission. Present today are crayfish, mud fish and mirror carp — and their predators, otters.
More recent restocking attempts have led to locals trying serious fishing, to no avail. But children do have fun catching little fish, pulling staples out of their notebooks to make improvised hooks.

Bunyonyi’s Street Food
Jimmy Betubiza has spent 40 years pulling tiny silver obuyamba from Lake Bunyonyi with papyrus baskets. Roasted into crispy skewers, his protein-packed catch feeds locals, cures malnutrition, and draws canoe-drifters. Learn more.
How Safe is Bunyonyi?
There’s an amusing story about hippos visiting Lake Bunyonyi this millennium and there was something similar taking place in the 1980s. Outside of that, Bunyonyi is completely hippo- and crocodile-free.
Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) is not a threat but low water temperature can be — although it can reach 25℃/77℉ on the surface, it is recommended you enter the lake gradually on hot days to avoid cold water shock drowning.
Lake Bunyonyi’s Major Islands
Lake Bunyonyi has a great number of islands: 29. Some of their histories:
- Akampene (Punishment Island): Until the 1940s, unmarried pregnant women were left here to starve to death or drown trying to swim to the shore; they were often saved by poor men or slaves who could not afford the regular bride price.

Island of Death
Punishment Island, once held unmarried pregnant girls, abandoned without food or hope because virginity meant bride price. Some starved, others drowned, a few were rescued. Similar brutal practices existed across the Gorilla Highlands region until Christianity curbed them. Learn more.
- Bwama: In 1914 it was an anti-colonial rebel base of a famous leader, Katuregye. In 1921, Dr. Leonard Sharp, a missionary, founded a leprosy hospital here.
- Njuyeera (Sharp’s Island): Dr. Sharp’s family lived on this island when he was not on duty in Kabale Hospital and converted it into a gorgeous botanical garden with a tennis court, boat house, guest cottage and windmill.

Doctor Sharp’s Miracles
Three Lake Bunyonyi islands — Bwama, Njuyeera, and Bushara — share the legacy of Dr Leonard Sharp, who founded a leprosy hospital on Bwama in 1921. His family lived on Njuyeera, famed for its gardens and hospitality, while Bushara supported doctors. Learn more.
Our Stories From Lake Bunyonyi:
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When Spirits Say ‘Meow’
One of the first faces you’ll meet at Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi isn’t human — it’s Sammy the Cat. Ever since the tragic demise of PK the Bird, she’s stepped…
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The 30th Island of Lake Bunyonyi?
Right, so officially Lake Bunyonyi has 29 islands … but who’s keeping track, really? (No one actually knows how they came up with that number.) With the water creeping up…
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The Batwa Patient
There are few places where you desperately want to see a familiar face — like a hospital. Unless you work in one, all that antiseptic sparkle and military-level order is…
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Eggs! Eggs!! Eggs!!!
Let’s rewind to Christmas 2024 for a sec — remember what you were doing? Eating too much and dodging awkward family convos? Meanwhile, at Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi we were…
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Self-Declared Nomad With a Cam
Guess who’s been camping at Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi for a week? Jonathan Fontaine – winner of a 2023 World Press award for documentary photography! He popped by for “just…
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Crazy Weather of Lake Bunyonyi
So, summer’s just about to pop its sunny little head round the corner. You’d think that’s all sunshine and hammocks, right? Well, not quite. Around Lake Bunyonyi the weather has…
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No Land, No Problem: Lake Bunyonyi’s House Boat
Tourism round Lake Bunyonyi? Still pretty fresh, buddy! Before Dr Sharp opened his guesthouse in the 1920s, hardly anyone beyond the town of Kabale had a clue this slice of…
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Rest in Peace, Pleasure Katusiime (June 2024 – April 2025)
Before we all dive headfirst into the craziness of a new week, we want to take a moment and raise a feathered toast to a tiny legend who somehow stole…
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Mondays Used to Suck
Can we be real for a sec? Mondays used to suck! Like, the actual worst! The weekend would vanish in a puff of regret and suddenly you were catapulted back…
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Pizzzzzzzzzza News
Pizza?! Cheese??? That’s disgusting! — such would be the reaction of any traditional dweller of Lake Bunyonyi, including our storied Tom Karemire. But for foreign taste buds it doesn’t take…
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… And Then Gods Finally Smiled
The Gods weren’t just against us — they were sitting up there with popcorn, taking bets on what could go wrong next.In October, when we tried to test our new…
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Serene Pleasure & Cherry Trees
It’s been a while since we last heard from our team at Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi, so here is a dispatch by volunteer Michele, enriched with recent photos … As…
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When Her Life Rolls Out in Front of Her Eyes
When we organise trips for other tour companies, we never push to build relationships with the guests. It’s kinda unprofessional; their clients are their clients and their brand is their…
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Mouthwatering Blend of Batwa Culture and Bakiga Hospitality (Coming Soon)
We are making significant headway towards launching responsible Batwa “Pygmy” boat trips on Lake Bunyonyi! What we initiated in August is now on track to be readily available in October:…
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Partnership with Batwa “Pygmies”: Not the Easiest but Highly Impactful
Volunteering with Batwa “Pygmies”? Not the easiest thing in the world, yet potentially highly impactful! Londoner Edd had selected it from our long list of projects that had been waiting…
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Coming Together
Quarterly newsletter for Gorilla Highlands lovers How remarkable that we were there again — in the clearing next to a simple tin-roofed house, above a campsite with a couple of…
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The Complete Package (Almost There)
Focus is key, they say. We were advised against adding something new to our already exciting travel offerings — but now that food experiences in Kigali, Musanze, Kisoro and at Lake…
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Unapologetically Miha
This is the first Gorilla Highlands quarterly newsletter delivered to subscribers by email. If you wish to get future issues please contact us. * * * There were tiny gorillas…
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ChatGPT Gets Africa (Somehow)
As Tour Business Coaching Program participants, we were encouraged to subscribe to ChatGPT 4. Visual art generation is one of its advances, and it has proved hilarious to explore what…
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First Time to Leave Rwanda, First Time to Canoe & Camp
The training period of the four candidates for our office staff ended with an adventure in Uganda, joining our guest Alex from Washington on three days of activities. Once we…
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Shiv’s Colourful Week in Rwanda & Uganda
Londoner Shiv loves music. He straight away sat in front of our tour minibus and took full advantage of the Bluetooth connection, playing mostly American hip hop and some R&B.…
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10 Cool Accommodations in the Gorilla Highlands Region
We believe that what you do is the heart of any tour. But not everybody is like that. Many people prefer to start with where to stay …So let us…
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Birthday with the People of Lake Bunyonyi
Jure had been thinking of the Gorilla Highlands region for over six years. Late last year he made a definite plan with us: a trip to celebrate his 41st birthday,…
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Trouble for Batwa “Pygmy” Communities: Lake Bunyonyi
We previously talked about Rwamahano, as an example of Batwa “Pygmy” groups we work with. These indigenous people originate from some of the oldest humans in Africa. They once lived…
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SABA Episode #10 — How to Be Good Partners to Batwa ‘Pygmies’?
For the tenth episode of SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA (we are now in the double digits!) I was sent on a mission to visit the Batwa “Pygmy” people of Echuya…
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How Does a Ugandan Village Work?
The LC Pyramid of UgandaFor a remote village on the edge of Uganda it is as important as it is for any town to have security, stability and unity. Property…
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SABA Episode #6 — Gifts for Kids, Begging & Smart Giving
The sixth episode of our SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA podcast explores one of the trickiest questions we get from travellers: What should I bring for children I will meet?I already…
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The Split (Kabale, Nkozi & Bunyonyi 2011)
This is the eleventh instalment of a weekly series that marks 20 years of Edirisa and 10 years of the Gorilla Highlands Initiative. Click here for Part I. When I…
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What Should I Expect in Terms of Cultural Shock?
Culture shock is expected, and even welcome, when you exchange a life in the West for a dive into African life. But your culture shock will inevitably be quite personal.Considering that I’m a…
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How Edirisa Changed My Life, and Theirs (Kitanga 2009)
This is the ninth instalment of a weekly series that marks 20 years of Edirisa and 10 years of the Gorilla Highlands Initiative. Click here for Part I. 2009 was…
