We have some big news to share: Hadidja Nyirababikira, better known as Mama Nelly, is back in Nkora on the Congo Nile Trail! Six months ago we shared her life story and her decision to relocate to a more urban area. What has changed?
“I found a new business opportunity,” Hadidja explains. “I now buy sambaza fish fresh from the fishermen here, fry them, and send them to Rubona on the shared passenger boats. Nkora is the best place for this work.”
You may wonder why running a popular restaurant on the Congo Nile Trail isn’t enough to make ends meet. The truth is that our amazing hiking and cycling route doesn’t see the traffic it deserves. In 2025 especially, due to irrational security concerns, small businesses along the route had a tough time.
But in addition to travel advisories catching up with the realities, therefore increasing Mama Nelly’s expected traffic in 2026, there’s more good news. Our lady has found a safer home close to her original location, away from erosion-prone areas. “Here in the village I no longer have to pay rent,” she says. “That expense was becoming harder and harder to afford.”
Travellers on the Congo Nile Trail should rejoice! Mama Nelly’s food comes straight from the land and lake — always freshly prepared — and her reliable presence eases you planning. Moments like sharing a meal at her table make a long journey feel special and deeply human. The Congo Nile Trail is defined as much by the people who live along it as by the stunning views of Lake Kivu.
text by Enock Musabyimana, photos by Mama Nelly