“Zdravo, kako si?” guide Owen surprised a group of Slovenians at the end of December with this greeting. He freelances for us thanks to a volunteer from Slovenia who found him as a kid — giving him what he jokingly calls his “Slovenian roots”. Moreover, he has been working with Seba, the team leader, for many years whenever ShaPPa tours come to Bunyonyi.
And here they were again: 18 hikers tackling the 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus trek, only in the opposite direction! Once the great chefs at Edirisa filled everyone’s bellies, the challenging journey began. It led past grazing animals and playful children to the summit of Mt Karembe (2,487m/8,130ft), with youthful fans in tow. A Muzungu (white person) never goes unnoticed on the western side of the lake that few travellers walk.
It was hot, sweat was dripping and any extra motivation was absolutely welcome. First that was the energetic dance of the Bakiga, lifting spirits, then the astonishing view of Bunyonyi that came with a promise: climbing ends here! Little did the visitors know that the steep descent can be just as hard …
At the end of a swampy valley they encountered the Batwa “Pygmies”. Their songs and dances gave everyone a taste of what was coming later that day. Seba remarked that tourist encounters give the Batwa a reason to keep the drinking in check. A statement that would soon prove … questionable.
What would a Bunyonyi trip be without some rain?! A nearby man opened his home to offer shelter and a cup of the local beer, obushera. The Slovenians appreciated the former but politely declined the latter. The Batwa then accompanied them to the canoes and on to the home of Mama Bena.
Silence and tiredness were not on the menu! The evening was filled with dynamic vibes around the crackling campfire. As drinks, food and entertainment flowed freely, the countdown to 2026 began. A tradition was kept alive: candles were lit and sent out upon the lake, wishing all a happy new year.
In the morning dugouts took our guests to Bwama Island to check on the Slovenian medical students, then back to Edirisa for lunch. It was a singular holiday experience that won’t fade from anyone’s memory anytime soon.
text by Milan Verdonk; photos by Elie Chiruza & Milan Verdonk
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