César Niyonkuru has seen a great deal during his decades as a hiking guide on Rwanda’s Congo Nile Trail. When he was introduced to Rinda Scheltens, he worried early on that the long route might prove demanding for her. Their first day began at a gentle pace, and his doubts quietly grew. He wondered whether she would make it all the way.
He was wrong.
Rinda turned out to be a powerhouse. Only for the second time in César’s career did a guest skip Kinunu (normally the second night on the Trail) and push straight on to Musasa. Few hikers choose not to rest in Kibuye; Rinda did not need the break. Even when illness struck, she kept going.
She was kind, cooperative, and never forced anything. Whenever an adjustment was needed, she and César would simply sit down and talk it through until they found the best solution. (Sadly, not every hiker is like that. )
What impressed César most, however, was Rinda’s dedication to documenting the journey. She filmed everything on the way and also took the time to record daily reports from the trek. She isn’t an influencer, oh no, she simply runs a hiking channel on YouTube and a collector’s website.
Back home in the Netherlands, she then invested more than 15 hours editing the material, gifting the walking world a video for every single day on the Congo Nile Trail.
Thanks to Rinda, we now have an admirable video series that gives anyone interested a realistic sense of what the Trail is like. It will undoubtedly help popularise a route that deserves far more global attention.
In her introduction video, Rinda covers everything hikers need to know before setting out. She does not go into the topic of tipping, so we invite readers to consult our own page devoted to it.
Rinda describes her first day on the Congo Nile Trail as “a hiker’s dream” and is immediately glad she opted for a guide, noting that the signposting is far from foolproof.
Rinda and César reach Kinunu, the best-known overnight stop on the northern section of the Trail, by noon. Instead of stopping, they agree to push on to Musasa — an extra 15km/9.3mi.
The additional effort of the previous day pays off. As Rinda repeatedly reminds us, she’s a Dutchie from the lowlands and not particularly used to hills, so having more time to tackle the slopes of Bukasa slower makes perfect sense.
The fourth day brings them to the very end of the northern segment of the Congo Nile Trail. A boat arranged by César delivers them to their accommodation in Kibuye.
Lesser hikers might take a rest day here, but not our heroes! The southern Trail section follows newly found paths, without any signposts. A cow blocks Rinda’s way at one point, but everyone seemingly survives the encounter.
The most dramatic views of the whole trip! Rinda is fascinated to learn that César himself was part of the team that charted these routes. He also serves as her bodyguard today.
Rinda hopes for a swim at the end of this short day, but poor health means she’s simply happy to reach her accommodation. Rice paddies and harvesting scenes enrich the walk.
A bamboo-lined river and commercial sand digging add new layers to Rinda’s experience of Rwanda’s landscapes. She enjoys two showers at the end of the day — because they are hot, for once.
The best and the worst of the hike: especially beatiful lakeshore kilometres paired with dead pigs floating in the water. Rinda’s desire to swim disappears immediately.
By the final day, César’s early doubts seem very distant. Rinda is genuinely sorry to leave the Congo Nile Trail behind. Hiking with César, she says, felt like walking with a friend.
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