Why would somebody opt for hiking through Africa? What is wrong with a good old motorised safari through Rwanda and Uganda? How can a walking safari be an improvement on that? It’s obvious: you get truly close to the nature and people of an area famous for its striking beauty and warm hospitality. The 29 photos in this story shall give you a taste of all that…
When you are pleased with the experience and ready to share your testimonial with the world, why exclude your names? Why wouldn’t you want to appear on the images? The answer: jealousy. You are going to tell your friends but you don’t want to provoke others…
That’s why this is a pictorial about Four Brave Slovenians and a Ugandan lady guide who did the following in December: walked for three days from Lake Bunyonyi to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (accompanied by an adventurous Scot), spent three nights under the Virunga volcanoes, and hiked from Mgahinga to Buhoma in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park in three days again. A minibus then took them to Queen Elizabeth National Park and finally returned them to Rwanda’s capital city. All in all, 13 days of the Ultimate Hike+ in the Gorilla Highlands region.
The Four Brave Slovenians’ first contact with Kigali was brief. They flew in after midnight and immediately began moving towards the Ugandan border, some two hours away.
They reached Edirisa on Lake Bunyonyi at dawn, for some early morning breakfast and an insight into Edirisa’s activities.
Their place to spend the night, however, was BirdNest at Bunyonyi, the lodge with perhaps the best food in the region (that shall soon be tested at Silverchef 2017 held at the very place).
The speciality of Lake Bunyonyi are crayfish, prepared as a sauce, served popped, put on a pizza or in other dishes.
Fridays happen to be market days at Rutindo, the trading centre across the bay. Dugout canoes bring goods here from all sides of the lake, some leaving their villages when it is still dark.
Our hikers paddled to Kyabahinga peninsula where they ate Mrs Annah’s delicious local food and checked on Omugurusi’s Jeremiah herbalist clinic.
After a night at Tom’s Homestay, they made their way into the heavily cultivated mountains that separate Kabale district from Kisoro.
Behind tea plantations, Echuya Forest, one of the remaining parts of the massive ancient rainforest, awaited them. They had to cross it guided by a Batwa “Pygmy” guide and equipped with rubber boots for the swamp in the middle of Echuya.
Their second and last camping experience took place on the shores of Lake Kayumbu where a church family hosts Gorilla Highlands hikers.
Edirisa has upgraded the campsite with a simple sitting toilet and a swimming jetty. From the edge of the latter, a hamerkop, a remarkable African bird related to storks, carefully monitored the water.
Past hardworking women they trekked towards Mgahinga.
This is the neatest landscape of the hike, where farmers benefit from fertile volcanic soils and produce wheat, a rarity in Uganda.
The comfort of Gahinga Lodge (see Mt Sabinyo in the background) was much appreciated after the roughest part of the walk, especially its complimentary laundry facilities.
For most of the group, Mgahinga was the wildlife highlight. A baby had recently been born to the mountain gorillas habituated in Mgahinga, and our hikers were lucky to see the cutie.
Boda bodas, passenger motorcyles, are God-sent in the Gorilla Highlands, making movement easy and affordable. The Four Brave Slovenians, on the other hand, used a car to shorten the least interesting segment of the walk.
Colourful coffins captured their attention in Kisoro Town.
Between Kisoro and Lake Mutanda, a visit to a coffee farmer filled the afternoon with sweet aroma. This activity was brought to the region by our partner Julius Wetala.
The chalets at Chameleon Hill, an unforgettably colourful lodge above Mutanda, opened up to a stunning view of the lake.
It was Christmas time, so Chameleon Hill featured a lovely African tree.
The last hours of the trek were spent at am exceptional place, in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The Four Brave Slovenians were still strong enough to opt for the bonus activity: a side trip to the triple waterfalls.
On the northern side of the park they had booked themselves the pretty and cosy Buhoma Lodge, and they were glad they did.
Next they a minibus took them to the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park. On the way, rural towns offered glimpses into Ugandans’ daily lives.
The Four Brave Slovenians’ only night in the savannah was spent at Enjojo Lodge, not too far from the park gate. But they reached it late, after checking out the starts of the day…
Queen Elizabeth is most famous for lions who seek coolness in trees (a cultural trait unique to few lion populations in the world) …
… and the launch trip on Kazinga channel connecting Lakes George and Edward. Animals are much less disturbed when you approach them by boat, making it the nicest safari available.
The Four Brave Slovenians completed their trip in Kigali. This flourishing city is a gourmet’s delight. Finding a top African restaurant closed, our guests ended up at Papyrus, an Asian place. The dishes were impressive, and their two weeks in the Gorilla Highlands winded up in a lovely way.
See more: Treks to Gorilla National Parks