If you wish to visit the mountain gorillas, you can do it in Uganda, Rwanda or DR Congo. The three countries divide the Virunga volcanoes into Uganda’s Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park and Congo’s Virunga National Park. For a rainforest environment, Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the place to go.
The only place to see Grauer’s gorillas is Kahuzi-Biega National Park in Congo. Even though the alternative name is “Eastern Lowland” gorillas, these are the highlands as well — and the environment resembles Bwindi.

Gorilla Tracking Guide
For the difference between mountain and Grauer’s gorillas and a load of other gorilla tracking information please proceed to Go-To Guide: Track Gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda & Dr Congo.
DR Congo Update, December 2025: Due to a long-term conflict between rebels and government forces eastern DR Congo currently isn’t suitable for travel.
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park /Uganda/

Bwindi, lying on the southwestern edge of Uganda, is the most in-demand mountain gorilla tracking destination of our region. The steep valleys and high ridges of Africa’s oldest rainforest can be reached through four gates.

The dense old-growth rainforest laid over pretty tough terrain provides refuge to about a half of the world’s mountain gorillas, and they can be accessed through four park gates.
Buhoma, the national park headquarters, has most accessible gorillas and offers a nature walk to triple waterfalls.
Nkuringo boasts greatest views over the forest and towards the Virunga volcanoes, with a hike across the park to Buhoma being the top activity.
Ruhija is the best birding destination and the starting point of a nature walk to the swamp that gave Bwindi its name.
Rushaga presents the largest number of habituated gorilla groups and even the longer gorilla habituation experience.
These are Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo. (The gate called Ndego on the map is for vehicle access, not gorilla tracking.)
The Virungas

Not to be confused with Virunga National Park, the Virungas are a chain of eight volcanoes straddling the Gorilla Highlands region across Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo:
• Mt Bisoke (3,711 m/12,175 ft) — dormant, on the DR Congo–Rwanda border
• Mt Gahinga (3,474 m/11,398 ft) — dormant, on the Rwanda–Uganda border
• Mt Karisimbi (4,507 m/14,787 ft) — dormant, on the DR Congo–Rwanda border
• Mt Mikeno (4,437 m/14,560 ft) — dormant, in DR Congo
• Mt Muhabura (4,127 m/13,540 ft) — dormant, on the Rwanda–Uganda border
• Mt Nyamuragira (3,058 m/10,031 ft) — active, in DR Congo
• Mt Nyiragongo (3,470 m/11,400 ft) — active, in DR Congo
• Mt Sabyinyo (3,669 m/11,959 ft) — dormant, where DR Congo, Rwanda and Uganda meet
The unofficial capital of the Virungas is Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) in northern Rwanda, about half an hour from Volcanoes National Park. On the Ugandan side, the Virungas are protected by Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, with Kisoro as the main urban hub. In DR Congo, Goma serves as the gateway to Virunga National Park (closed to tourism at present).
While Rwanda’s Twin Lakes are the most famous, the Ugandan side of the Virungas offers similar pairs: Lake Mutanda paired with Lake Murehe, and Lake Kayumbu with Lake Chahafi.

Mgahinga’s Only Family
The Nyakagezi family is the only habituated gorilla group in Mgahinga. With nine members, including three unusually harmonious silverbacks, they’ve stayed in the park since 2011. It’s known for being found at open, accessible locations. Learn more.
Kahuzi-Biega National Park /DR Congo/

Named after two dormant volcanoes, this park near Bukavu is known worldwide for Grauer’s or eastern lowland gorillas. Three habituated groups reside in the highland sector of the park that also protects over 1,100 plant species and 350 species of birds.
Kahuzi-Biega has the distinction of being the only national park in the Gorilla Highlands region that has properly integrated Batwa “Pygmies” in its daily activities.
Choosing the Park

In the Virungas, tracking is likely to take place in the mountain gorilla’s beloved bamboo environment, not far away from the park boundaries. In Rwanda, the tarmac extends straight to the national park headquarters, and because it is situated merely a couple of hours away from Kigali Airport, this is the most convenient — and pricey — tracking site.
Bwindi is an adventurous gorilla tracking location as the last hours of driving are often quite rough. The distance between some access points is such that a day of rough driving may be needed. In short, knowing that you will track your gorillas “in Bwindi” does not give a very full picture. The Buhoma gate, the park headquarters, is the oldest among them and hence best known and touristically developed. Buhoma gorillas are often easily accessible and sporadically even venture into lodge compounds. However, it would be wrong to ignore the other three gate options. If nothing else, they are closer to towns that offer a wider selection of more modestly priced accommodation.
Note: Nkuringo high above the forest tends to be the most physically challenging gorilla tracking location.
Our Stories from In & Around the Parks:
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How to Shop Smart in Bukavu (Rebels Love to Dress Well Too)
Eight months after M23 rebels took Bukavu, the city is as warm and dynamic as always. The national parks and banks are closed, the border with Rwanda is more user-friendly than ever, there’s a weekly community cleanup activity — but outside of that our Congo remains Congo! We can’t take you to Kahuzi-Biega to admire…
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Jane Goodall, World’s Leading Expert on Chimpanzees (1934-2025)
One hero fewer on this endangered planet … RIP. Don’t miss the article linked by The New Yorker — in not too many words, it paints a cool picture of Jane. You may also like: Power Wellness: Never Underestimate Things You Haven’t TriedMapping, Exploring, Adding MusanzeUltimate Toad5 Historical and Cultural Curiosities of Lake MutandaNyiragongo Volcano…
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Pedalling Uganda: From Lakes and Gorillas to Lions in Trees (Part 2)
… So, our three cyclists had crashed at Ruhija, a village on the rainforest edge. (If you’ve missed the start of their shenanigans, swing by Part 1). They woke up full of hope … and, being British, managed to size up the situation with a wry grin: here they were, in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park,…
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Four Days of Trekking to Gorillas, Upgraded
Claudia and Ralf Bonmann, a lively German couple, dreamed of an authentic and active cultural experience in the southwest of Uganda — a hike that would nicely blend with tracking mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. The Bonmanns talked to Shadows of Africa, a Tanzania-based tour operator, and they contracted the Gorilla Highlands team.…
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Rwandafully Classy: 40 Baby Gorillas Named
The 20th edition of Kwita Izina, Rwanda’s celebrated baby gorilla naming ceremony, was held in Kinigi yesterday. 40 mountain gorilla kiddos born since 2023 received their names, bringing the two-decades total of baby gorillas named to 438. The ceremony welcomed many distinguished guests, including the First Lady Jeannette Kagame and the Prime Minister, Dr. Justin…
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Nyabingi? The One Whose Divination You Seek …
Dig beneath the spiritual surface anywhere in the Virungas and quite quickly you will come upon Nyabingi. From Rwanda to Uganda to the eastern Democratic Republic of Congo, when you need the gods to smile upon you with wealth or a healthy pregnancy, Nyabingi is whose divination you seek.Nyabingi represents female energy and is concerned…
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Fresh Fruit, Fresh Look: Welcome to Musanze!
Experienced travellers often say that visiting a market offers an unmatched plunge into local culture: a glimpse into the daily rhythms and the very feel of a country. In the lively atmosphere of the Musanze Agri Market, filled with chatter and laughter, you can sense Rwanda’s passion for rapid urbanisation and order. In 2023–2024, the…
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Drawn to the Thrill of the Catch? Consider Lake Chahafi!
In the hills of Kisoro, where mist rolls off the Virungas and time seems to slow down, fish from Lakes Chahafi and Kayumbu is nothing short of treasure. So valuable, in fact, that fishmongers won’t dare cut a Mirror Carp unless someone is ready to buy the whole thing. A single kilo sells for no…
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Jenna’s Traveling Roots: Why We Made Our Home in the Virungas
Some very special people are choosing to live in Musanze, Rwanda … This is the second instalment in the Why We Made Our Home in the Virungas series, a story about Jenna’s Traveling Roots. (Click here for the first video, Lan’s cute take on his school called Virunga Valley Academy.) You may also like: Fertile…
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That Sweet Yellow Passion
Is there a better taste in the world than a glass of yellow juice freshly squeezed after a long hike? That first sip is life! This very tasty juice, which can be drank without sugar as it is often sweet enough already, originates from the passion fruit (Passiflora edulis). The common type found in the…
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Three Silverbacks, One Happy Gorilla Family
If you are advised by the Gorilla Highlands team, your gorilla tracking adventure in the Virungas will most likely introduce you to the Nyakagezi family in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Forget what old books or Google tell you, these friends of ours haven’t left Uganda for over a decade! They are usually found in the…
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Naughty Beer of the Volcano Gods
“It tastes like wine!” has been the funniest remark from our guests when we’ve introduced them to the famous beer of the Virungas. This very nutritious sorghum drink is called obushera/ubushera and has a rather peculiar, bittersweet taste. It does not resemble wine! Sorghum is a cereal crop widely grown around our volcanoes. The planting…
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Smaller Twins Are Handsome Too
Three pretty sets of twin lakes can be found nestled on the Rwandan and Ugandan side of the Virungas, and we usually spin tales about the bigger siblings only — Lakes Burera, Kayumbu and Mutanda. The reason is that these lie directly on our trekking routes … But today we are correcting this omission with…
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The Coffee Pot Hotel: A Family’s Legacy
Kisoro’s Coffee Pot Café is an institution. Known all across the Ugandan slopes of the Virungas, this cozy place of mixed German and Bafumbira DNA opened its doors in 2010. After 15 years in the business, it’s currently reinventing itself. At the heart of this transformation is Joseph Ndagijimana who was a kid when his…
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Where Can I Learn the Most About Gorilla Conservation?
If gorilla tracking is more than a selfie opportunity to you, add the Ellen DeGeneres Campus to your itinerary. Even from Uganda, it’s worth a day trip — located about an hour from the Cyanika border post in Kinigi, Rwanda. This 12-acre (5-hectare) facility is home to the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. Yes, that Fossey…
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The Virungas’ Most Intriguing Ethnic Group
Of all the cultures found around the Virungas, the Bafumbira are perhaps the most intriguing. Though they speak a dialect of Kinyarwanda, they live in Uganda’s southwestern corner, in Kisoro District. Their influence in Uganda far outweighs their numbers. They are a small minority, as there are only around 700,000 Bafumbira in their district while…
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Digital Superman under Rwanda’s Famous Breast
“Cows are everything to me. They are my siblings, my comfort zone, my love. They raised me, fed me, and shaped who I am,” says Alexis Ngabo Karegeya. His passion for cattle is contagious, and it’s turned him into a fascinating guide for visitors to the lush pastures of Bigogwe. Found on the southern side…
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Primates in the Mist: Climbing Mount Bisoke in the Rainy Season
The Virungas are currently in the rainy season, and hiking the volcanoes feels completely different compared to the drier months. Two brave team members decided to take on the challenge of climbing Mt Bisoke (3,711 m/ 12,175 ft): our Greek volunteer, Sifis, and Rwandan office manager, Sasha. At the park headquarters we were paired with…
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Fertile Trails: Hiking Through the Rich Soils of the Virungas
When your hike takes you into the rich agricultural soil of the Virungas — like our three Slovenian trekkers doing the Volcano Quest route from Lake Bunyonyi to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park — take a moment to fully appreciate the fertile wonder beneath your feet! Here, nothing goes uncultivated, and one could easily get addicted…
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Virunga Valley Academy: Why We Made Our Home in the Virungas
We could be based anywhere in the Gorilla Highlands region, but our choice is Musanze under the Virungas. The reason is very simple: it isn’t easy to get quality education in rural Africa, and here in the north of Rwanda we have found a remarkable international school. We’ve invited our little Lan to tell you…
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Mt Gahinga, the Volcano for Families & Beginners
If there’s a neglected child in the Virunga family of volcanoes, it’s Mt Gahinga. This “pile of stones” — as its name translates — is an ancient offshoot of Mt Muhabura, dating back some 100,000 years. At 3,474 metres (11,398 feet), it’s a proper mountain by any measure. But Gahinga sees remarkably few hikers. It…
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Virungas vs Bwindi: Where to Track Gorillas in 2025?
If you’re not a huge fan of crowds, wrestling through dense bushes or sweaty hikes, you may find that the Virunga volcanoes offer a more enjoyable gorilla tracking experience than the better-known Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Bwindi is Uganda’s go-to spot for seeing gorillas, but the Virungas — linking DR Congo, Rwanda and Uganda —…
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5 Historical and Cultural Curiosities of Lake Mutanda
Lying in between Uganda’s Mgahinga and Bwindi National Parks, Lake Mutanda is a handy spot to relax after your gorilla tracking. There is much more on offer here, however, than its awesome views of the Virungas and many water sports … 1. Island of the Dead, Kyangushu The island was traditionally used as a burial…
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How to Get Out of Musanze Caves with Photos You’ll Treasure
It’s always nice to be surprised, to come across something unexpected. A field of wildflowers on your game drive, perhaps. Or a cave system when you think you are in Musanze merely to hike the Virungas and see gorillas? It’s a nice way to spend 2.5 hours with an expert local guide, and you don’t…
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Volcanoes That Connect Old Friends
“Slowly by slowly,” as people say here, we’ve been building a library of tales from the Virunga volcanoes, of the lakes that cradle them, and the towns that breathe beneath their gaze. Years into this journey, the time has come to shine a deeper light on this sacred spine of the Gorilla Highlands region. Here,…
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Katie’s Last-Minute Gorillas in Mgahinga National Park
Katie Savitz travels differently; some might call it bold. A solo female traveller in East Africa, she avoids big tour companies, preferring to improvise along the way. It’s not about budget — she’s the co-founder of a fintech company — but about the simple, grounded lifestyle she values. She also does her homework, researching thoroughly…
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Catherina Did It Alone
It’s your fault! You had a unique chance to join Catherina’s Rwandan tour … and you missed it! Now she’s already in Kigali, prepping for tomorrow’s flight to Tanzania. Maybe she’s scrolling through the photos she snapped, marveling at how many images ended up on her memory cards. Sorting through them all will take time,…
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Humbled & Sore: A Journey to Burera’s Roots
Iztok’s mind was blown. He had never experienced the authentic warmth, the overwhelming energy, or the unfiltered fun of visiting an African village. He had also never, in his life, been a community’s focal point — all eyes on him like he was some global celebrity. “How should I act?” he wondered. “Naturally. Just be…
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Happy 2025 — with Tom in Musanze!
It used to be our tradition to ring in the new year on Tom’s island in the middle of Uganda’s Lake Bunyonyi. Yesterday, however, we brought Tom Karemire to Rwanda instead. Fulfilling his wish to visit our home in Musanze was a delight and added something fresh to our celebrations. Alongside the usual New Year’s…

